An Homage to My Grandmother’s Cashew Barfi: Cashew-Cardamom Shortbread
Nani, my late maternal grandmother, made the best cashew barfi. For the unacquainted, fudge-like barfi is just one type of mithai, the multiverse of South Asian sweets.
Classic barfi, especially popular in northern India, are made with the finely granulated sugar and khoya, or a product made by slowly boiling milk until it thickens into a solid, but some varieties, notably those made with nuts, do not contain khoya; instead, the finely ground nuts are boiled in a sugar syrup, or chasni.
I remember Nani pulling threads of hot syrup between her thumb and forefinger until it reached the “do tar chasni” (two string) stage in her spare railroad kitchen, and quickly incorporating nuts and spices, before rolling out the mass of candy with her well-worn belan, a long, cylindrical rolling pin used in most South Asian homes, and slicing it into perfectly symmetrical diamonds. Her hands moved symphonically, with effortless grace. It was like music—and magic. Her barfi were firm and velvety—and perfect.
My shortbread draws inspiration from her barfi, but without the finicky-ness of candy-making. They are buttery and crumbly and nutty and warm, and I’d like to think they are an excellent homage to the original.
Cashew-Cardamom Shortbread
Yield: 30-36 cookies
I prefer following this recipe by weight measurements, because they’re more precise. But for those without a kitchen scale, I have converted into the volume measurements as well.
Ingredients:
1/2 cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup (100 grams) confectioner’s sugar
1 large egg yolk, at room temperature
1 teaspoon (5 milliliters) almond extract
1 cup (125 grams) all-purpose flour
3/4 cup (70 grams) cashew flour (see note)
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
Pinch of salt
Preparation:
Note: To make cashew flour, pulverize raw (unsalted) cashews in a blender or food processor. Sift before use.
In the bowl of a mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, mix together the butter, sugar, and salt until they are completely combined. Add the yolk and almond extract and mix until just combined.
In a separate bowl, combine flours and cardamom, and add to the butter mixture in 3 batches. Mix until just combined. It is better to undermix than overmix!
Remove the dough from the bowl and place on a large sheet of parchment paper. Place another piece of parchment on top and roll out dough until it’s about 1/4-inch thick. Remove the top piece of parchment paper and cut out shapes using desired cookie cutter.
Preheat the oven to 350°F degrees.
Place the cookies on a cutting board and then into the refrigerator until cold, about 20 minutes. Remove cookies with an offset spatula and arrange 20 cookies on a parchment-lined baking sheet. The cookies will expand during baking.
Place in the oven on a centered rack and bake for about 8 minutes and then rotate the pan and let cookies bake for another 6 minutes, or until edges are golden brown.
This essay is a part of Comestible Issue 9, a special online edition devoted to the wisdom, knowledge, and inspiration from the women who came before us.
Papercut illustration by Anna Brones
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